• What is radon and where does it come from? 
  
  
  • Radon is a decay product of Uranium.  A simplified version of the breakdown process follows.
    
    
    Radon-222 is a radioactive gas that is released during the natural decay of Uranium, which is a naturally occurring element found in varying amounts in rock and soil.  Radon gas is odorless, tasteless and invisible, and cannot be detected with the human senses.  As radon-222 decays, it emits alpha particles, which can damage lung tissue and have been linked to causing lung cancer in humans.
    
    
    Learn more about radon.
    
    

   

• What are the health hazards of radon?  
  
  
  • Radon is a known human carcinogen and has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer, second only to smoking.  If enough alpha particles from radon and radon decay products are inhaled, they can cause physical and chemical damage to the highly sensitive stem and basal cells of the human lung.  The relevant damage here is to the DNA molecules of those cells, which compose the genes that control the activity of the cell.  Damage to the DNA can cause the mutated cell to multiply rapidly and uncontrollably--a condition we call cancer.
    
    
    Learn more about how to protect yourself from radon.
    

• What types of device are used to measure radon?  
  
  
  • There are several devices and methods used for detecting and measuring radon.  There are passive devices, such as charcoal canisters, electret ion chamber detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices and alpha-track detectors, which do not rely on a separate power supply.  There are also active devices, which require a separate power supply to operate.  These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working level monitors.
    
    
    
  • Learn more about radon testing methods.
    
    

   

• Where is the instrument placed to measure radon?  
  
  
  • The radon device should be placed in the lowest livable area of the house, including in an unfinished basement, unless otherwise requested by a client.  A radon test should not be performed in a basement or sub-area that could never be finished without first having to perform major structural changes.  The test should be in a room that is used regularly but not in the laundry room, bathroom or kitchen.
    
    

   

• Why do you test for radon in the basement when I don’t live in the basement?  
  
  
  • The EPA states, “The testing device(s) should be placed in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level currently lived in or a lower level not currently used, such as a basement, which a buyer could use for living space without renovations.”
    
    

   

• When can I get the results of our radon test?  
  
  
  • All radon test data is sent to our headquarters in order to be evaluated and reviewed by our radon technicians.  After the data has been evaluated, a hard copy of the report with the results of the radon test will be sent to you in five business days.  The turnaround time may vary slightly based on unforeseen circumstances.
    
    

   

• From whom do we get our test results?  
  
  
  • After the test is completed and the information has been sent to our headquarters, we will send the results of your radon test in a hard copy format.
    
    

   

• Can you tell me the radon results when you pick up the machine?  
  
  
  • When a continuous monitor is used for radon testing, the test data is transmitted back to the main office for evaluation and quality assurance review.  The standard turnaround time for converting the information into report form is five business days.  The turnaround time may vary slightly based on unforeseen circumstances.
    
    

   

• What happens if the radon level is high?  
  
  
  • The current recommendation of the EPA is to mitigate if the radon test results show a level of 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.  It is preferable that, if a radon problem has been detected, the problem be taken care of prior to placing the property on the market.  In today’s market, it is very likely that the buyer is going to request that a radon test be performed, and if any problems with radon are discovered, they will request that the problem be rectified before continuing with any purchase plans.
    
    

   

• If I have radon, how do I get rid of it?  
  
  
  • Radon in the ground is drawn indoors by the pressure differential between the inside (lower pressure) and the outside (higher pressure) of the house or dwelling.  Radon reduction methods fall into two basic categories--prevention of radon entrance into the dwelling and removal of the radon once it has gotten into the dwelling.  Sealing the cracks and other openings in the foundation is the first step of most radon reduction methods, however, this should not be considered the only step necessary.  Sealing cracks and openings is most effective if it is used in conjunction with other mitigation techniques.  One of the most popular methods of mitigation is known as “sub-slab depressurization” or “suction.”  The sub-slab depressurization method removes the radon-laden air from beneath the foundation and vents it to the outside of the house via a pipe, which has one end installed through the foundation into the gravel below, and terminating the other end outside the shell of the house.  Another method is known as “sub-membrane depressurization” and is used more in sub-areas (basements and crawlspaces that have dirt floors.  This method uses a plastic vapor barrier through which the bottom end of the mitigation pipe is run.  Yet another method is to terminate the bottom end of the mitigation pipe into the hollow core of a block foundation wall.  This method is known as “block wall depressurization.”
    
    
  • Learn more about reducing the risks of radon.
    
    

   

• Who should I call for radon mitigation?  
  
  
  • At U.S. Inspect, we do not have a policy of recommending individuals or companies to perform repairs or mitigation, as this would be a conflict of interest.  However, every state has a radon office that can provide valuable resources for consumers, Realtors, building contractors and industry professionals.
    
    
  • For a list of state radon contacts, go to www.radongas.org/state.htm.
    
    

   

• How much does mitigation/remediation cost?  
  
  
  • The actual cost of radon mitigation or remediation depends on several factors, including the age and style of the dwelling.  The cost to have a contractor install a mitigation system can vary from $500 to as much as $2,500 or more.  The average cost for mitigation is $1,200.
    
    

   

• How does a radon mitigation system work?  
  
  
  • A sub-slab depressurization system works by bypassing the negative pressure inside a house, using a continuous air channel that runs from the area beneath the basement slab or sealed crawlspace vapor barrier up to and through the finished roofline.  This air channel usually consists of the largest diameter PVC piping that will fit inside of a finished wall (usually a 3-inch inside diameter).  Somewhere along this piping will be a continuously running, electrically driven fan that creates a negative pressure in the sub-slab area and pulls the radon-contaminated air through the house without it getting into the breathable air.  A common place for the radon exhaust pipe to be installed is in the sump pump pit.  If there is no sump pump pit in the basement area, a section of the basement slab will have to be removed for the bottom of the pipe to be installed.
    
    

   

• Is my home in a “high” radon area ?  
  
  
  • The radon level can vary from house to house and is not a predictable situation.
    
    
  • Take a look at these radon potential and EPA radon maps to determine if your home is located in a "high" radon area. 

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